Scotch College

A life-altering Kokoda experience

For 10 Scotch boys and two leaders, the Kokoda Track was an unforgettable emotional and physical experience.

Words: MAX STEIGER, YEAR 11

On July 5 at 4.30am, 10 tired Scotch boys, Mr Woodruff and old boy Howard Sharp (’01) gathered at the group check-in counter at Tullamarine airport, excited and anxious about what the next 12 days had to offer.

Once in Port Moresby a trip to Bomana war cemetery made us realise the sheer number of men killed in the fighting, from cooks to air force commanders, young men and old.

The next day we set off at 5.45am for the start of the Kokoda Track at Ower’s Corner. After several hours walking, including a big river crossing, we arrived at Imita Ridge, and we began to realise how hard this was going to be. Around us as we ate lunch on Imita Ridge were the foxholes that the Australians used to defend this place from the advancing Japanese in 1942. Although he denies it, it was at this point that Mr Woodruff declared this was an easy day and that ‘tomorrow was solid.’

Day two was indeed ‘solid’, as we climbed up and down through the false peaks of the Maguli Range, eventually arriving at Nauro Village. Day three took us over Brigade Hill in relentless, driving heavy rain. It was one of the most important battle sites on the track, where the Australian soldiers were cut off and slaughtered by the Japanese.

On the nights of the third and fourth day, we got to mingle with the kids of Efogi and Kagi Village (much to Alex Williamson’s liking), and we all, except Will Allen, who looked after the toddlers, played a game of touch rugby with the local kids.

The next morning we set off to climb Mt Bellamy, the highest point on the track. We passed through Templeton’s Crossing II, where two key battles were fought, the first as the Australians mounted a fighting withdrawal and the second as the Japanese retreated. It was hard to imagine how difficult it would have been to fight in this hot, steamy climate and on such a steep slope, with the roaring creek drowning out all noise.

Along the way to our campsite at Eora Creek we climbed off the track and discovered war relics, including helmets, Bren guns, mountain gun shells, hand grenades, mortars, supply cans and bullets, in among a well set-up Japanese bunker system,.

We spent our last night on the track in the clouds at Alola Village. The next day we visited Isurava battlefield and memorial, where the most important and celebrated battle was fought, as the Australians desperately tried to hold on without being surrounded and annihilated by a ruthless and well-trained Japanese force.

It was here that we heard of the inspirational deeds of Bruce Kingsbury, VC, Charlie McCallum and many other brave Australians.

After a remembrance ceremony, and placing a battered wreath and poppies to commemorate the sacrifice, we bought sugarcane and Coke, before finishing the last of our supplies for lunch. Once we arrived in Kokoda, we said goodbye to our local guides Jeff, Brus and Lynus, who we had to thank for helping us to survive the week on the track.

The next day we dispersed into separate villages to stay there for the next three days, learning and living the cultures and habits of the national villagers. The stays mostly consisted of us playing soccer and touch rugby, gardening in the hectares and hectares of ‘backyards’, going swimming, and realising the power that came with being a male in PNG.

After a hectic ride we enjoyed a night of Chinese food in the heart of the most dangerous city in the southern hemisphere – Port Moresby.

Despite several stomach upsets and one notable fall through a hole in the pavement, we could all say that we were happy with the past 12 days, and content with our achievement. We were all still dazzled with everything that we had learned about the sacrifice our ancestors made, but also appreciated the simple love of life enjoyed by the friends we had made.

All the boys on the hike enjoyed themselves thoroughly, and would agree that they had had a life-altering experience. For that, we would like to thank Howard Sharp and especially Mr Woodruff, who made this trip possible and contributed wonderfully with his knowledge about the war and the people.

The group was: Will Allen, Stuart Baines, Lachlan Cooper, Chris Docker, Max Lippiatt, Callum Mayer, Max Steiger, Peter Tear, Charlie White, Alex Williamson, Howard Sharp and Tom Woodruff. GS